2nd gen cummins build

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Best of all, the kit is a direct bolt-on and comes complete with lines, pumps, steering box and all the necessary fittings to tie into the factory Hydro-Boost setup. Since this truck regularly pulls a foot fifth-wheel trailer, loaded with quads and gear, setting it up to tow was Job One. With mild motor mods, there was no worry about excessive EGTs under load, and with the steering up to snuff, handling improved. What needed attention were the suspension and brakes.

Just about anyone who tows heavy will need a set of air bags to level the rear of the truck. We added a Firestone Ride-Rite system to the Dodge with individual fill lines mounted in the rear bumper. Speaking of keeping things level, with an aftermarket steel bumper and 12,pound winch headed for the front of Project 2nd Gen, we figured the front end could use a little help.

The ReadyLIFT T6 aluminum spacers simple fit above the stock coils and leveled the truck enough to be comfortable adding both the new front end and inch rubber. The Quiet Slot rotors utilize a unique combination of alloys with a special coating and dimpled design for improved performance.

Fusion Bumper contacted us regarding Project 2nd Gen and sent over a prototype front bumper and 12,pound winch setup. We learned the hard way you should install the Rigid Industries LED lights first before installing the bumper. Strictly had to also clock the winch, and the control box was installed alongside the aFe intake for ease of access.

Next came new rolling stock. The steelies are load-rated and the old school combo looks awesome on the Ram. A set of Bushwacker fender flares keep any rocks from hitting the body.

Finishing touches included a Vortex spray-in bed liner from Coverall Technologies and a fifth-wheel hitch setup. The truck works as designed. Advanced Flow Engineering aFe www. BD Diesel Performance www. Borgeson Universal Company www. Bushwacker Inc.

Coverall Technologies www. Edge Products www. Firestone Industrial Products www. Fusion Bumper www. Gilmore Diesel Performance www. Hawk Performance www. Mickey Thompson www.

Optima Batteries www. PML www. Rigid Industries www. Royal Purple www. Strictly Diesel www. Your email address will not be published. Share Tweet 0. Pin it 1. Up next. Published on 05 May Author Kevin Wilson. Share article The post has been shared by 28 people.

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These eliminate the use of the slot in the front axle lower to adjust caster. So you will either have a fixed setting or switch This pack of 3 brackets will allow you to hav For the Ultimate in strength. Replaces your short 4 control arms. Upper and Lower Heavy Duty replacement and extended length control arms for you 2nd gen 4 wheel drive truck.

Available in single or double adjustab Required when switching from a mechanical to electric lift pump to block off the original mechanical fuel pump port in the engine block. This is a subtracted part from our 1st gen to 3rd gen coil axle swap kit, but is perfect for those 2nd, 3rd and early 4th gen guys either wantin These are 1. These parts are to build a hardcore, heavy duty, no rattle and good looking traction bar set for your 2nd gen leaf spring Ram truck.

These are custom fab parts to make a long arm four link for your ram or or megacab. You will not use the original mounts at al Empire Theme by Pixel Union. Far From Stock Big Order? A turbo does not need any restriction, in fact, the less restriction the better. The main tradeoff between the two sizes is sound, and the total amount of power it can support.

If you plan on making anything less than horsepower, a 4-inch exhaust will be adequate. Just be prepared for a little more up-front cost, a little more weight, and some more noise. Either size you choose will result in an increase in power, lower EGT, and an increase in fuel mileage.

Finally, we get to programming, and this is where the real power gains will come from. For to 5. For later model trucks, its advantageous to use the EFI Live tuning platform, since it has the capability to switch between power levels on the fly with an optional switch.

Once the CSP switch is installed, you can enjoy towing, daily driving, or racing, all with a clean running truck that gets better fuel mileage than stock.

One accessory I consider to be necessary after stage one is a good set of gauges, with the two most important being a pyrometer and a boost gauge, as they are the best indicator of the health of your engine, and they give you a warning to take your foot off the accelerator if things get too hot.

For a high-tech look you can install an Edge Insight CTS3 using an external sensor for the pyrometer, plus it will allow you to keep an eye on other parameters like injection timing, rail pressure, fluid temperatures, and a whole lot more.

The parts for stage two are broken up into two separate categories: parts that support power and keep the engine together, and parts that add power through increased airflow. To prevent that from happening, its necessary to swap out the head bolts with a stronger fastener, and the industry standard is a set of ARP Head studs.

For most street trucks making under hp, the ARP rated at , psi tensile strength studs will work great. For higher power levels, you should step up to the CA material.

This does represent a pretty steep price jump, but the fasteners are rated at a much higher at , to , psi. The valve spring is responsible for closing the valve, but it also has to push a rocker bridge, rocker arm, pushrod, and a tappet back down to the base circle of cam. There is a lot of mass to move, plus you have boost and exhaust drive pressure pushing against the backsides of the valves trying to work against the spring.

When you combine that with higher RPM, the stock valve springs have a hard time keeping up, and if they cant close the valve in time, the piston will step in and do the job instead, which is not what you want to have happen.

Hamilton Pound Valve Springs will work much better than the stock pounders and will keep the valves in place without putting too much pressure onto the cam lobes.

Since you already have the valve cover removed to install the head studs, valvesprings will only add another hour or two to the job. Since they are so long and made from thin wall tubing, the stock pushrods can bend due to the stronger valvesprings and elevated cylinder pressure, so an inexpensive upgrade to Hamilton Extreme Pushrods will keep you out of trouble.

Now that the valvetrain is stabilized and the head is clamped to the block, its time to add a bit more air into the mix. You can get 3. The stock intercooler will flow a bit more than it was designed to, but once the boost is turned way up, the stock core becomes a restriction, creates a pressure drop, and is less efficient at removing heat.

Common rail trucks from onward 3rd and 4th generation body style mount the turbine housing between the 4th and 5th cylinder with the manifold discharge pointed straight down.

This puts the turbo much lower in the engine bay and closer to the block. Though the manifolds from the 5. The 5. In both instances, the runners inside the manifold are restrictive, and the placement limits what turbochargers you can physically bolt up.

A second gen swap will ditch the stock design, and instead uses an exhaust manifold designed to fit a 2nd generation valve Ram from The turbo is mounted higher and further away from the engine, which means you can install a larger and more durable S style of turbo, with plenty of size options for a range of power levels.

It works in conjunction with a stock or modified VGT, still allows for all emissions components to operate, and you can install it in an afternoon with basic hand tools. But whenever you add more fuel later on, the compounds will really come into their element.

So, what about that 2nd gen swap? One major factor for deciding between the two styles is driver preference. It can be configured in a variety of ways with your choice of manifold and turbo, but for a mild street build you could start with an S and cast manifold, or if you want to go nuts you can swap to an S SX-E.

But whatever option you choose, stage two is all about getting more air into and out of the engine with less restriction, which paves the way for stage three. By now the head is clamped down tight, the valvetrain is stable, and there is plenty of cool air making its way into the engine, so the only thing missing is fuel. The common-rail inline six has by far the stronge. The earlier 5. The later 6. If you insist on low RPM boost and torque, a budget friendly upgrade is to install some shot-peened vave connecting rods in your 6.

Either way, a conservative number to shoot for would be between horses and less than 1, pounds of torque at the wheels, and to get there we need a lot more fuel than the stock parts can supply. If you own a Ram, the easiest and simplest way to upgrade the lift pump is with a Fleece Powerflow in-tank lift pump assembly.

It installs as a direct replacement to the stock pump and sending unit but has two electric fuel pumps mounted in the bucket. It will flow enough to support horsepower, and will even work with a dual CP3 configuration, but the best part is since the fuel pump sits inside the tank, it requires no drilling to sump the tank, and its very quiet.

When it comes to high pressure fuel, the stock CP3 will throw in the towel somewhere around the hp mark. Although you may not need all 1,hp worth of fuel, the most economical solution is a Deluxe Fleece Dual CP3 kit. It mounts a second belt driven CP3 pump to the engine and comes with a stock displacement CP3K pump which has been modified to supply fuel above 3, RPM. And because the fueling duties are now split between two pumps, each has much less work to do, so they will last for a very long time.

And if one ever fails, you can simply replace it with an affordable stock displacement pump, rather than a pricey stroker CP3. Finally, the valve covers need to come off one more time so we can throw some larger injectors into the engine. You can push things further however…. Remember the trucks we talked about from the UCC? Yes, you can take your regular k mile Cummins engine to the extreme, but all the parts we had for stage one, two, and three will be thrown out, and we need to start over.

Is this all practical? Not exactly, but the better question is how fast do you really want to go? The reality is most owners will stop somewhere between stages two and three. Maybe they have a modified single VGT and slightly larger nozzles, along with a few airflow and valvetrain upgrades, and are perfectly happy with horsepower. Also, the brands and specific parts you choose may vary, as will your specific power output, but be smart about the order you install parts, avoid doing a job twice, and most importantly, keep an eye on that EGT gauge to keep your pistons happy and the rods inside your block.

On a stage 2 upgrade would it be necessary to upgrade injectors or add a external fuel pump like air dog or fass?

Especially on a common rail Cummins, its never a bad idea to upgrade the lift pump with a FASS or AirDog for something simply more reliable and with increased filtration capability compared to the stock system.

I would recommend upgrading for anyone even running a chip or programmer on the upper power levels frequently to avoid failure of the stock pump, which will end up starving the CP3. The stock charger on the 6. This turbo works great for those that are running a chip or programmer, but stock size injectors. If you are running larger injectors, let us know what size, and we can recommend other options. Info is great!

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More complete and affordable than ever! These parts are t Add from menu on right. This is for a pair of Radius Long Arm links to replace your Set of 4 Raw Steel. These eliminate the use of the slot in the front axle lower to adjust caster.

So you will either have a fixed setting or switch This pack of 3 brackets will allow you to hav For the Ultimate in strength. Replaces your short 4 control arms. Upper and Lower Heavy Duty replacement and extended length control arms for you 2nd gen 4 wheel drive truck. Available in single or double adjustab Required when switching from a mechanical to electric lift pump to block off the original mechanical fuel pump port in the engine block.

This is a subtracted part from our 1st gen to 3rd gen coil axle swap kit, but is perfect for those 2nd, 3rd and early 4th gen guys either wantin These are 1. These parts are to build a hardcore, heavy duty, no rattle and good looking traction bar set for your 2nd gen leaf spring Ram truck. A turbo does not need any restriction, in fact, the less restriction the better.

The main tradeoff between the two sizes is sound, and the total amount of power it can support. If you plan on making anything less than horsepower, a 4-inch exhaust will be adequate. Just be prepared for a little more up-front cost, a little more weight, and some more noise. Either size you choose will result in an increase in power, lower EGT, and an increase in fuel mileage.

Finally, we get to programming, and this is where the real power gains will come from. For to 5. For later model trucks, its advantageous to use the EFI Live tuning platform, since it has the capability to switch between power levels on the fly with an optional switch. Once the CSP switch is installed, you can enjoy towing, daily driving, or racing, all with a clean running truck that gets better fuel mileage than stock.

One accessory I consider to be necessary after stage one is a good set of gauges, with the two most important being a pyrometer and a boost gauge, as they are the best indicator of the health of your engine, and they give you a warning to take your foot off the accelerator if things get too hot. For a high-tech look you can install an Edge Insight CTS3 using an external sensor for the pyrometer, plus it will allow you to keep an eye on other parameters like injection timing, rail pressure, fluid temperatures, and a whole lot more.

The parts for stage two are broken up into two separate categories: parts that support power and keep the engine together, and parts that add power through increased airflow. To prevent that from happening, its necessary to swap out the head bolts with a stronger fastener, and the industry standard is a set of ARP Head studs. For most street trucks making under hp, the ARP rated at , psi tensile strength studs will work great.

For higher power levels, you should step up to the CA material. This does represent a pretty steep price jump, but the fasteners are rated at a much higher at , to , psi. The valve spring is responsible for closing the valve, but it also has to push a rocker bridge, rocker arm, pushrod, and a tappet back down to the base circle of cam. There is a lot of mass to move, plus you have boost and exhaust drive pressure pushing against the backsides of the valves trying to work against the spring.

When you combine that with higher RPM, the stock valve springs have a hard time keeping up, and if they cant close the valve in time, the piston will step in and do the job instead, which is not what you want to have happen. Hamilton Pound Valve Springs will work much better than the stock pounders and will keep the valves in place without putting too much pressure onto the cam lobes.

Since you already have the valve cover removed to install the head studs, valvesprings will only add another hour or two to the job. Since they are so long and made from thin wall tubing, the stock pushrods can bend due to the stronger valvesprings and elevated cylinder pressure, so an inexpensive upgrade to Hamilton Extreme Pushrods will keep you out of trouble. Now that the valvetrain is stabilized and the head is clamped to the block, its time to add a bit more air into the mix. You can get 3.

The stock intercooler will flow a bit more than it was designed to, but once the boost is turned way up, the stock core becomes a restriction, creates a pressure drop, and is less efficient at removing heat. Common rail trucks from onward 3rd and 4th generation body style mount the turbine housing between the 4th and 5th cylinder with the manifold discharge pointed straight down. This puts the turbo much lower in the engine bay and closer to the block.

Though the manifolds from the 5. The 5. In both instances, the runners inside the manifold are restrictive, and the placement limits what turbochargers you can physically bolt up.

A second gen swap will ditch the stock design, and instead uses an exhaust manifold designed to fit a 2nd generation valve Ram from The turbo is mounted higher and further away from the engine, which means you can install a larger and more durable S style of turbo, with plenty of size options for a range of power levels. It works in conjunction with a stock or modified VGT, still allows for all emissions components to operate, and you can install it in an afternoon with basic hand tools.

But whenever you add more fuel later on, the compounds will really come into their element. So, what about that 2nd gen swap? One major factor for deciding between the two styles is driver preference. It can be configured in a variety of ways with your choice of manifold and turbo, but for a mild street build you could start with an S and cast manifold, or if you want to go nuts you can swap to an S SX-E.

But whatever option you choose, stage two is all about getting more air into and out of the engine with less restriction, which paves the way for stage three. By now the head is clamped down tight, the valvetrain is stable, and there is plenty of cool air making its way into the engine, so the only thing missing is fuel.

The common-rail inline six has by far the stronge. The earlier 5. The later 6. If you insist on low RPM boost and torque, a budget friendly upgrade is to install some shot-peened vave connecting rods in your 6. Either way, a conservative number to shoot for would be between horses and less than 1, pounds of torque at the wheels, and to get there we need a lot more fuel than the stock parts can supply.

If you own a Ram, the easiest and simplest way to upgrade the lift pump is with a Fleece Powerflow in-tank lift pump assembly. It installs as a direct replacement to the stock pump and sending unit but has two electric fuel pumps mounted in the bucket.

It will flow enough to support horsepower, and will even work with a dual CP3 configuration, but the best part is since the fuel pump sits inside the tank, it requires no drilling to sump the tank, and its very quiet. When it comes to high pressure fuel, the stock CP3 will throw in the towel somewhere around the hp mark. Although you may not need all 1,hp worth of fuel, the most economical solution is a Deluxe Fleece Dual CP3 kit.

It mounts a second belt driven CP3 pump to the engine and comes with a stock displacement CP3K pump which has been modified to supply fuel above 3, RPM. And because the fueling duties are now split between two pumps, each has much less work to do, so they will last for a very long time.

And if one ever fails, you can simply replace it with an affordable stock displacement pump, rather than a pricey stroker CP3.

Finally, the valve covers need to come off one more time so we can throw some larger injectors into the engine. You can push things further however…. Remember the trucks we talked about from the UCC? Yes, you can take your regular k mile Cummins engine to the extreme, but all the parts we had for stage one, two, and three will be thrown out, and we need to start over.

Is this all practical? Not exactly, but the better question is how fast do you really want to go? The reality is most owners will stop somewhere between stages two and three. Maybe they have a modified single VGT and slightly larger nozzles, along with a few airflow and valvetrain upgrades, and are perfectly happy with horsepower. Also, the brands and specific parts you choose may vary, as will your specific power output, but be smart about the order you install parts, avoid doing a job twice, and most importantly, keep an eye on that EGT gauge to keep your pistons happy and the rods inside your block.

On a stage 2 upgrade would it be necessary to upgrade injectors or add a external fuel pump like air dog or fass? Especially on a common rail Cummins, its never a bad idea to upgrade the lift pump with a FASS or AirDog for something simply more reliable and with increased filtration capability compared to the stock system. I would recommend upgrading for anyone even running a chip or programmer on the upper power levels frequently to avoid failure of the stock pump, which will end up starving the CP3.

The stock charger on the 6. This turbo works great for those that are running a chip or programmer, but stock size injectors. If you are running larger injectors, let us know what size, and we can recommend other options. Info is great!